A trip to the Sabarimala temple is unique. The journey requires strict adherence to customs and routines, and it involves rituals that last for days. Rites have to be performed as per tradition to complete a proper pilgrimage, which starts at the end of 41 days of abstinence (vrata).
The journey begins at Erumely. From Erumely, pilgrims set out on foot through the forest. The rocky trail over the hills takes them through thorns and past wild animals. It is a walk that purifies the body and the mind, one that is close to nature.
Before leaving Erumely, pilgrims perform Pettathullal, a ritualistic war dance. They smear their bodies with colours and dance wildly, sporting replicas of ancient weapons like the mace. This ritual prepares them mentally for the gruelling journey through the forest.
After proceeding three kilometres from Erumely, the pilgrims take a turn towards Irumbunnikkara and walk two kilometres to reach the edge of the forest. There they cross the Koyikkakavu check-post and enter a teak forest. Its first slope leads to a rivulet, which is half-feet deep. A bath here is refreshing.Cool and pristine forest streams are seen throughout the trail.
The next climb takes the pilgrims to a plain atop a hill. As it has not been long since old teak trees in that area have been replaced with their saplings, there is little shade there. After walking half an hour in the sun, the pilgrims reach Koyikkamuzhi, where a stone idol is set on a rocky ground; it looks like it has been built for forest gods. Devotees light camphor and incense before it, and take bath in the stream that flows through nearby rocks.
After walking half an hour from there, the Ayyappa devotees reach Kaalaketty. A Mahadeva temple and a Wild Jack (anjili) tree, on which it is believed that a bull was tied, are here. Legends say it was from here that Lord Shiva and Goddess Parvathi watched Lord Ayyappa kill Mahishi. From there, Azhutha is only 10 minutes away.
It is a custom to take a dip in Azhutha river and take a stone from it before climbing the hill. The water is deep and the currents are strong in the river, but pilgrims can safely reach the other side through the walkway, which was built seven years ago. From there, it is a steep climb through the forest. It will take almost an hour to reach the top. Big roots and stones act as steps. In between, there are boulders to take rest. The breeze coming through giant trees gives relief. The climb ends at Kallidamkunnu, full of round stones that have been dropped by devotees for blessings.
Half an hour away from the top of that hill is Enchappara fort, which houses a small temple that is opened only during the Mandala-Makaravilakku season under the supervision of the Mala Araya community. Atop the hill, there is a broad well in front of the temple. To take water from the well with the concrete roof, there is a small cave on one side through which people can bend and enter. During the pilgrimage season, this well quenches the thirst of lakhs of devotees, who use the water to cook food also.
Half an hour downhill from the fort is Mukkuzhi, where there is a Devi temple. Pilgrims pray to the goddess before continuing the journey because there are not many resting places on the seven-hour-long trek to Pamba through a narrow forest trail where sunlight is negligible. On this stretch, the forest is like a green hut of vines below the blue sky. Giant trees and bushes are on both sides. The forest is not visible beyond 50 metres. The prayers of devotees reverberate in the forest. This journey, submitting everything before Lord Ayyappa, itself is the pinnacle of devotion.
Where else can such a pilgrimage be undertaken, without any connection to the world outside? This trail has only small slopes. Another feature is that no one comes from the opposite side because the return journey is not through this way.
However, sometimes, people who return after supplying goods to shops that cater to devotees can be spotted.
Pilgrims do not get tired on this journey because washing in the rivulets on the slopes and the valleys keeps fatigue away. There is dung everywhere, reminding them of the presence of elephants.
After walking three hours from Mukkuzhi, pilgrims reach the banks of Puthussery River. It is a resting place where they take bath and cook food.
Since the next stage of the journey is a steep climb over Karimala, rest is necessary. A dip in the forest stream gives energy to the body and the mind like never before. Its pristine medicinal water is untouched by man for 10 months.
Those who spend the night there can see elephants at any moment. However, attacks by elephant herds have not been reported yet. It is said animals try to stay away from the trails for two months as if in a courtesy to their human guests.
If the journey from Erumely had started in the morning, then one has to spend the night at Puthussery. Next day, a misty morning welcomes the pilgrims. Till sunlight pierces it, the mist engulfs the surroundings. After another bath in the river, it is time to prepare for the steep climb over Karimala.
Half an hour of walk from there takes the pilgrims to Kariyilamthodu. It might seem unbelievable that even this forest stream is a place for a ritual. There pilgrims have to take a dry leaf across the river and place it on their first step on the opposite bank. The next step is at Karimala.
Karimala has seven levels. Pilgrims climb from one level to the next through a narrow trail. The majesty and the vastness of the forest can be experienced from Karimala. It is dark green everywhere. In some places, the sky can be seen through gaps in the forest canopy. Sunlight seldom reaches the ground there.
It takes two hours to reach the top of Karimala, where there is a sacred pond. Its special feature is that its water level is always two-men deep. This pond is as amazing as the well in Enchappara fort. It belies the notion that water springs only at lower levels.
After resting there, pilgrims go downhill in one level, unlike seven during the climb. An hour later, they reach the banks of Pamba River, from where they can walk and reach Pamba in another hour. This completes the pilgrimage through the forest trail.
