For generations, tribal communities living along the banks of the Chaliyar river have ventured into its riverbed to pan for gold.

For generations, tribal communities living along the banks of the Chaliyar river have ventured into its riverbed to pan for gold.

For generations, tribal communities living along the banks of the Chaliyar river have ventured into its riverbed to pan for gold.

While descending the hill and observing the shimmering signs of Irulkunnu’s mining history, Abdul Razak, a local resident, remarked: “Meeting Muhammadali will help you understand everything about it.”

And there, at Maruthakkadavu along the riverbank, stood Muhammadali, patiently sifting gold. Initially, he was hesitant when asked about the presence of gold in the river: “I have nothing to say, lest my livelihood be affected.” Later, he opened up. Still working his sieve, Muhammadali began to share his story.

Turning stone and sand into gold
Small pits are dug into the riverbed by hand, as no machines are used. The sand mined from these pits is transferred to the Maravi, a special wooden utensil shaped like an elephant’s ear, carved from a single piece of East Indian Walnut or Indian Laurel.

The sand is washed in river water. After an effort lasting hours or even days on end, it may begin to glitter if gold is present. Two drops of mercury are added, which absorb the gold grains. The mixture is then wrapped in cloth and heated, burning off the mercury and leaving behind the actual gold.

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Life is hard, unlike gold
By the time Muhammadali finished speaking, a faint golden shine appeared on the corner of his Maravi vessel. “Gold is now priced at over a lakh for one sovereign. Seems like a jackpot.” However his response to it lacked the sparkle of the grains he pointed to: “This is the result of three days of hardship. At best, it would weigh 100–150 milligrams.”

Leaving the river, Muhammadali immediately went to unload goods. The reality of gold sifting was clear, it barely sustains a livelihood.

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Muhammadali began sifting gold at age 15. In earlier years, he climbed Maruthamala in search of “golden stones,” until forest department restrictions halted such ventures. A full day’s labour in the river, from 6 AM to 3 PM., might yield only Rs.800–1,000, that too if one is lucky. Many days under the scorching sun bring no reward at all.

Just another job, like the employment guarantee scheme
For generations, tribal communities living along the banks of the Chaliyar river have ventured into its riverbed to pan for gold. Yet their lives remain in poverty, as the gold they collect is worth very little. For them, sifting gold is no different from casual labour or employment guarantee work.

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Unlike other jobs that pay by the hour, the gold hidden in Chaliyar is unforgiving. Some days, they return empty-handed after hours in the river. Gold sifting continues along Chaliyar’s ghats at Munderimukkam, Panankayam, Uppada, Pookkottumanna and Kaippini.