Why is Thiruvananthapuram hidden from the heritage tourism map?

Thiruvananthapuram is a city that reveals itself best on foot. Nowhere is this more evident than in and around its historic Fort area – the heart of Kerala’s capital, built around the Sree Padmanabha Swamy Temple. Here, every street, corner and old building seems to echo stories of an extraordinary past. The area is a remarkable blend of medieval Kerala architecture and Indo-European-style buildings constructed during the Travancore era.

For first-time visitors drawn to history and those who have long loved the city, the Fort area is not merely a place to see; it is a place to walk, wander and rediscover. Dating back to the fourteenth century, this part of Thiruvananthapuram city is home to an extraordinary concentration of palaces, temples and royal structures, including Ananthavilasam, Rangavilasam, Krishnavilasam and Kuthiramalika.

The intriguing truth, however, is that much of this architectural wealth remains hidden from tourists. Take the majestic Ananthavilasam Palace, for instance. Built in the late nineteenth century and described by Kerala Tourism as the most beautiful of all palaces in the East Fort region, it showcases a striking blend of traditional Kerala architecture with strong Baroque and Rococo influences. Yet its architectural heritage remains largely overlooked, with the building currently housing the Directorate of Culture and remaining outside the city’s vibrant tourist circuit.

Most first-time visitors to Thiruvananthapuram gravitate towards the usual attractions – the Sree Padmanabhaswamy Temple, the Napier Museum and the Zoo. Yet the Fort area, with its remarkable richness of history and heritage, remains largely beyond the tourist gaze.

Why hasn’t this historic quarter become a treasure trove for visitors? Anyone with an interest in history and heritage might wonder the same while exploring the historic precincts of Kerala’s capital.

Preserving the historic and cultural identity of historic quarters within a modern city is no easy task. The challenge of allowing a living, growing city to preserve and showcase the history embedded within it is not unique to Thiruvananthapuram. It is a dilemma faced by historic cities across the world.

Global models
Present-day Rome offers a striking example: the two-millennia-old Pantheon still stands at its heart. The majesty of this ancient structure makes its presence felt even before one steps inside. Despite Rome being a bustling contemporary capital, the streets around the Pantheon – and much of the area surrounding the Colosseum – retain their distinctive cobblestone character. The buildings in these historic quarters of the Italian capital, meanwhile, remain in striking visual harmony with their ancient surroundings.

Many cities across Europe and Asia have made concerted efforts to preserve the architectural and aesthetic qualities of their historic quarters. In several European cities, heritage streets have been pedestrianised, while traditional paving and streetscapes are carefully retained. Kyoto offers another striking example, where conservation regulations seek to protect historic buildings and guide new development, ensuring that modern construction does not overwhelm the unique character of traditional neighbourhoods.

The Greek islands provide perhaps the most recognisable visual example. Their celebrated whitewashed houses and blue-domed buildings are not simply accidental; they are the result of careful architectural and preservation practices. Santorini offers a striking example of how historic character, when carefully preserved, can become an integral part of a destination’s tourism appeal. Without this approach to preservation, Santorini might not draw tourists with quite the same enthusiasm to witness what is often described as one of the most beautiful sunsets on Earth.

True, comparing the experience of advanced societies with that of India can be a futile exercise. The real question is: can we learn from these experiences and create a model of heritage tourism that works for us? A recent visit to Udaipur – the erstwhile capital of the legendary Mewar dynasty and one of Rajasthan’s major tourist destinations – was an eye-opener.

Lessons from Udaipur
Udaipur offers a fascinating example of an Indian city where history is not merely preserved but made an integral part of the tourism experience.

Much of Udaipur’s tourism activity is concentrated in the old city around Lake Pichola. This historic core is dotted with buildings that reflect the heritage of the Mewar era, including the magnificent City Palace, traditional havelis, historic ghats and prominent temples. A boat ride on the iconic Pichola offers a striking panorama of the city’s Mewar-era architectural splendour, with newer buildings blending seamlessly into the character of the old city.

What stands out in Udaipur is the striking architectural and design consistency of hotels in the old town, ranging from world-class luxury properties to an array of budget hotels. Such visual coherence has been achieved not only by preserving historic buildings but also by ensuring that new constructions incorporate arches, balconies, courtyards, and other elements of Rajasthani architecture.

A major hallmark of Udaipur is the aesthetic appeal of its hotel interiors. Floral decals, birds and flowering branches adorn walls, rooms and corridors, lending even modest hotels and restaurants a distinctly royal feel.

Restoring history
Udaipur also offers an inspiring example of how restored historical monuments can be transformed into multipurpose spaces for tourism. A case in point is Bagore Ki Haveli, a museum housed in a historic mansion.

For many years, Bagore Ki Haveli lay in a dilapidated condition after being used as a government office. It was later painstakingly restored, with its erstwhile royal character, architecture and cultural ethos preserved. Today, the haveli serves as the headquarters of the West Zone Cultural Centre as well as a museum, housing an impressive collection of puppets. Its open spaces also host cultural performances, including traditional Rajasthani folk dances, for tourists.

Strikingly, most of the dances showcased there draw from Rajasthan’s vibrant village traditions, with little direct connection to the royal legacies of Mewar, Rathore or Kachwaha – the state’s three major dynasties. Yet for a tourist spending a few days in Rajasthan, watching folk performances in a royal setting can be an unforgettable experience.

Miles to go
Back to Thiruvananthapuram. Imagine a tourist arriving at Kuthiramalika or Ananthavilasam Palace and experiencing the grandeur of Kathakali or Thiruvathirakali performed in its better-preserved surroundings, with the Fort area revitalised in the distinctive architectural aesthetic of Travancore. The palace-temple quarter could be paved with cobblestones and opened exclusively to pedestrians and non-motorised vehicles. Such a transformation could bring the splendour of old Travancore vividly back to life, allowing visitors to experience the city’s historic charm in a truly immersive way.

Kerala has successfully established and branded itself as a leading tourist destination in India by showcasing its rich natural beauty – from beaches and tranquil backwaters to lush forests and scenic hill stations. Yet, compared with states like Rajasthan, Kerala still has a long way to go in showcasing and promoting its exceptional historical and cultural heritage.

Even a city like Thiruvananthapuram, home to one of India’s most noteworthy royal dynasties and remarkable architectural traditions, has yet to emerge as a heritage tourism destination. What Kerala tourism lacks is a strong aesthetic vision – one that not only preserves its historic legacy but also offers visitors an immersive heritage experience. Udaipur offers a compelling example of how an Indian city can not only preserve its historic monuments but also ensure that new buildings reflect its traditional architectural character, creating a cohesive heritage landscape of the kind often seen in more developed countries.