From Kolkata street food to protest fuel: The century-old story behind Rahul Gandhi's kati roll
Originating in 1932 at Kolkata's Nizam's to keep British patrons' hands clean, the portable 'kati' roll evolved from simple kebabs in parathas into a globally beloved street food.
Originating in 1932 at Kolkata's Nizam's to keep British patrons' hands clean, the portable 'kati' roll evolved from simple kebabs in parathas into a globally beloved street food.
Originating in 1932 at Kolkata's Nizam's to keep British patrons' hands clean, the portable 'kati' roll evolved from simple kebabs in parathas into a globally beloved street food.
Amidst police barricades and energetic slogan-shouting on the streets of Delhi, Leader of the Opposition Rahul Gandhi and his fellow Congress leaders were spotted grabbing a quick bite. Their snack of choice? Piping hot rolls ordered from Delhi's famed Khan Chacha. While it served as a much-needed energy boost during a high-decibel protest against the Chief Election Commissioner, the humble roll carried with it nearly a century of rich culinary heritage.
The ultimate democratic food
There is a uniquely democratic charm to a roll. Whether held by a high-profile politician, an executive rushing between meetings, a student dashing between classes, or a commuter with barely seven minutes to spare, the roll treats everyone equally. It requires no cutlery, plates, or dining tables. Wrapped in parchment paper, it can be unspooled and devoured on the go with just one hand. This effortless convenience is precisely what transformed the Kolkata creation into a global favourite.
British tastes and the birth at Nizam's
The story began in 1932 in Kolkata's bustling New Market area at Nizam's, an eatery established by Raza Hasan Sahib. Renowned for its fragrant kebabs and flaky parathas, the restaurant faced a peculiar challenge. Traditionally, kebabs cooked over glowing coals were eaten directly by hand. However, British patrons working in nearby colonial offices found handling greasy, spiced meat cumbersome and messy.
To cater to these fastidious customers who wanted a quick, dry bite, the chefs at Nizam's devised an ingenious solution. They stripped the meat from gravy, rolled the boneless kebab pieces inside a warm paratha, and handed it over. The paratha functioned simultaneously as a plate, a protective wrapper, and an edible utensil. Colonial Kolkata instantly fell in love with this portable feast.
How the 'kati' got its name
Initially, the dish was simply referred to as a roll. The word 'kati' entered the culinary vocabulary much later, in 1964. Originally, Nizam's used heavy iron skewers to grill their kebabs. To make the cooking process faster and more economical, the restaurant switched to lightweight bamboo sticks, known as 'kati' in Bengali. When kebabs grilled on these bamboo skewers were rolled into parathas, the iconic name 'kati roll' was officially born, earning a permanent spot on Nizam's menu alongside chicken, mutton, beef, and khiri variations.
Evolution and global spread
The original roll was straightforward: a crisp paratha wrapped around charred kebabs, topped with sliced onions, green chillies, and a squeeze of fresh lime juice. Over time, street vendors across Kolkata adapted the recipe, coating the paratha in fried egg, adding tangy sauces, and introducing vegetarian fillings. Its adaptable nature allowed the dish to thrive far beyond Kolkata, conquering cities like Delhi and Mumbai before making its way to Indian eateries in London and New York. From keeping British colonial hands clean to powering political protests on the streets of Delhi, the journey of the kati roll remains one of India's most fascinating food stories.