Regatta of Kottayam's Thazhathangadi, harking back to history beyond a century

Kottayam: Back in 1965, celebrated filmmaker Adoor Gopalakrishnan chose the waters of the Meenachil River at Thazhathangadi to shoot an exhilarating boat race sequence for his film Kamuki, featuring screen icons Madhu, P J Antony, Adoor Bhasi, and Usha Nandhini. Though technical setbacks ultimately kept the film from reaching theatres, the choice of backdrop spoke volumes. As senior citizen and lifelong boat racing enthusiast Thazhathu Babu P Koshy recalls, it was clear proof that Thazhathangadi had already cemented its reputation as a celebrated bastion of the sport well over half a century ago.

The filmmakers had arrived to capture the electric pulse and thunderous roar of the crowds that defined one of Kerala’s oldest water carnivals. Yet, decades before cinema turned its gaze to these waters, legendary boats like Kottaparamban and Poozhikkadan had already locked oars in fierce duels here. Today, the competitive ripples on these historic waters carry a legacy spanning 125 years.

An Onam powered by the rhythm of oars
For generations, Onam in Thazhathangadi was synonymous with the thrilling spectacle of the regatta, traditionally held on the first Saturday following the festival. In 1937, Sree Chithira Thirunal Balarama Varma, the Maharaja of Travancore, arrived to witness the races in person. The event was promptly rechristened the Sree Chithira Vallamkali, with the Maharaja serving as its patron for decades.

Its prestige soon resonated far beyond state borders. On October 31, 1956, a special regatta was organized in honour of Emperor Haile Selassie of Ethiopia during his state visit. The visiting monarch personally presented a signed trophy to the winning chundan vallam (snake boat). Renamed the Haile Selassie Ever-Rolling Trophy, this coveted prize remained the centrepiece of the Kottayam regatta until 1989.

When Kottaparamban and Poozhikkadan first flew across the waters
The man widely hailed as the architect of modern Kottayam, Diwan Peshkar Rama Rao, was also the founding father of its competitive regattas. Traditional Kerala vessels were built in a myriad of shapes and designs the Chundan, Odi, Veppu, Iruttukuthi, and Churulan. In those days, snake boats and traditional crafts were primarily reserved for ceremonial temple pageants or deployed to transport royal soldiers.

During a voyage across Vembanad Lake aboard a kettuvallam (traditional houseboat), the Diwan was captivated by the grace and raw power of the snake boats. An idea sparked in his mind: why not categorize these vessels by size and build, and turn watermanship into a structured sporting contest?

That vision materialized on June 29, 1885, when the first formal competitive boat race was flagged off on the Meenachil River at Thazhathangadi, headlined by a thrilling clash between two rival titans Kottaparamban and Poozhikkadan.

The tradition Diwan Rama Rao ignited was soon embraced by the community and turned into a cherished local heritage. In a fascinating historical parallel, it was the very same Diwan who would later move Kottayam’s administrative seat from the historic banks of Thazhathangadi to the modern town center we know today.