Will pappadam lose its signature bubbles? A heartbreak for Kerala

What makes a Kerala pappadam so irresistible? Drop one into hot oil and watch it suddenly puff up, forming delicate bubbles and turning crisp in seconds. That familiar texture, which makes pappadam a favourite accompaniment to Kerala meals, could now be under threat, manufacturers say.

The familiar sizzle, the sudden puff and the bubbles that make Kerala pappadam special could soon be a thing of the past. Pappadam manufacturers in the State fear that new food safety norms could alter the very qualities that make the traditional variety a staple on Kerala dining tables.

The manufacturers say the new quality standards prescribed by the Food Safety and Standards Authority of India (FSSAI) fail to account for the distinctive characteristics of Kerala pappadam. According to them, applying a uniform standard to pappadam varieties across the country could put traditional Kerala pappadam makers at a disadvantage.

The difference lies partly in moisture. Kerala pappadam contains more moisture than North Indian masala papad and the appalam made in Tamil Nadu and Karnataka. When dropped into hot oil, that moisture helps the pappadam balloon, creating the crisp, airy texture and characteristic bubbles familiar to Kerala diners.

The lower moisture content of masala papad and appalam gives them a longer shelf life, while the higher moisture in Kerala pappadam gives it the characteristic texture, appearance and bubbles that set it apart.

The latest food safety regulations, however, stipulate that the moisture content in pappadam should not exceed 15%. The Kerala Pappadam Manufacturers Association argues that bringing the traditional variety within this limit could affect its ability to puff up properly, ultimately changing the texture and appearance that consumers associate with Kerala pappadam.

Manufacturers also allege that Food Safety officials have been imposing fines on them for exceeding the prescribed moisture limit.

Association State president Vineeth Prarath said the organisation would soon approach the State Food Minister and the Food Safety Scientific Committee, seeking urgent intervention to ensure that food safety standards do not erase the distinctive qualities of Kerala’s traditional pappadam.

For a food that is often the finishing touch to a plate of Kerala meals, the concern is simple: if the moisture goes, will the puff go with it?