Which pepper is good for recipes? Annu Sunny makes value addition to spices, conquers markets

Do you know which pepper gives that unique flavour and punch to the iconic pepper chicken? If your answer is ‘just any pepper available in the market’, then you are wrong. Meanwhile, Annu Sunny, a young entrepreneur and startup owner based in Nedungandam, Idukki, would quickly say that Neelamundi is best for dishes like pepper chicken. She has confirmed this after speaking to many international chefs and by experimenting with flavours at various culinary institutes across the country.

Besides, Annu has customers from abroad who specifically ask for the Neelamundi variety. Neelamundi pepper gives a delightful aroma and mouthwatering flavour to pepper chicken. 

Annu highlights this trend as the major change that would be observed in the spice trade and value addition of products in the coming years. There will be customers who demand specific varieties of not only pepper but cardamom, cloves and nutmeg too. India is a storehouse of many spices and unique varieties of ingredients that have Geographical Index tags.

From the Thalanadan cloves to the Palakkadan matta rice, Kerala boasts umpteen products, which have GI tag. A GI tag is a sign used on products that have a specific geographical origin and possess unique characteristics attributable to that place. However, despite having the GI tags, most of these products aren’t marketed well or made available in the international market. Meanwhile, Annu and her business partner Chhattisgarh native Bhavesh launched a startup called Graamya to find out unique products, no matter whether they have GI tag or not, and create a niche market for them. 

From Palakkad to Ellackal
The spices grown in Kerala hold a unique place in the global market. Annu says that Kerala could retain this monopoly only if we are willing to change with time. The idea of creating separate markets and demands for specific varieties is a trend of contemporary times. Annu says that this trend has significance in the modern age, where food production and processing have achieved great progress. For instance, the value of pepper corns is determined using the litre weight (weight of 1 kg).

However, the food processing industry and chefs of international hotel brands focus on quality and flavour rather than weight. They know that the dishes taste amazing when specific varieties of pepper is added. So, pepper varieties like Neelamundi, Karimunda and Perumkodi acquire a value dearer than merely their litre weight. Graamya tries to create taste profiles for each spice that is grown in Idukki by associating with culinary institutes for flavour experiments. 

Graamya sources more than 17 varieties of pepper including, Vellamundi, Thulakodi, Kuthiravali, Cheppukulam, Jeerakamundi, Perumkodi, Neelamundi and Kanikadan, even from the inner hamlets of Idukki. They give the farmers at least Rs 100 per kilo more than what these varieties fetch at the market. The spices are separated into specific varieties before exporting them to global markets, including Europe. 

Annu says that most of the indigenous spice varieties are high-yielding and are of top quality. If the preferred shrinkage of pepper corns after drying is 1:3, then varieties like Kanikadan has a shrink factor of 50 percent. The quality and yield of each variety would differ depending upon the soil, water and availability of sunlight.

The farmers should observe these features and then decide which variety is suitable for their farm. For instance, Karimunda gives excellent yield when grown at Paalar while it may not thrive in other places. The rate of production and the quality would increase if the farmers are able to identify specific varieties of spices that are suitable for their surroundings. 

Not just black pepper, white pepper too enjoys huge demand in the global market. White pepper is made by removing the skin of soaked pepper corns. Pepper corns that are naturally shed while harvesting are used for this. Annu says that considering its shrink factor, white pepper is acquired by giving the farmers at least Rs 250 extra per kilo.

Graamya also sources and sells specific varieties of cardamom. Palakkudi, Njallani, Jaya, Kanni elam are some of the popular cardamom varieties that are known for their excellent quality too. Annu says that Palakkudi gives excellent yield in the fields of Paalar.

There is a solid market for specific varieties of cardamom that boast unique flavour and aroma. Annu says that they are able to sell their products at double the price of the market rate as value has been significantly added to these spices. She also tries tree-spacing method by planting 1500 cardamom saplings per acre (it is usually 450 per acre). 

Ellackkal ginger grown in the Rajakkad region enjoys high demand in the market than other varieties. This variety has a light blue shade. Annu roamed around Idukki looking for the best quality ginger to produce ginger tea and ginger powder. She finalised the Ellackkal variety after purchasing and testing at least 1.5 tonnes of various kinds of ginger. Graamya sources pepper, cardamom, ginger, cloves, tamarind, bay leaves and even paddy from the hamlets of Idukki. The number of people turning to farming has gone up in these villages after seeing the incredible profits that these spices are earning. 

From IRMA to Idukki
After completing her graduation and India Fellow Social Leadership, Annu Sunny worked at the Institute of Rural Management in Gujarat. During her time at IRMA, Annu focussed on projects that aimed to improve the living standards of rural families. She then joined hands with her colleague Bhavesh to move her base to the villages in Idukki.

Annu chose agriculture as she realised that the villagers would benefit only if they achieved sustainable living methods rather than sanctioning projects, like a regular NGO that ensured financial assistance. Meanwhile, Annu is not a stranger to pepper or cardamom farming as she herself hails from a family of farmers. 

Graamya sources ethically grown spices from select farmers and processes them with great care and precision before selling them to customers who realise their value. Currently, Graamya sources products from more than 200 farmers. Besides, they also grow products in their own organic farms. Graamya also has an extensive processing unit equipped with modern machinery at Paalar.
Phone – 9545112600 
Website – www.graamya.in