A forgotten Kerala recipe makes a fiery comeback at this buzzing toddy shappu in Ernakulam

For beef lovers in Kerala, idi irachi holds a permanent place in the heart. The name refers to beef that is dried and preserved, a practice that goes back to a time before refrigerators, when flavour had to last through seasons. That old-world taste is now being revived at Andichira Shappu, a modest toddy shop near Piravom in Ernakulam district. What was once familiar only to an older generation is now drawing curious young foodies too, who travel from far and wide to this tiny shop in Kakkoor just to taste the real thing.

The star of the show
The menu at Andichira has plenty to tempt you, but it is the idi irachi that steals every glance. Chunks of sun-dried beef are pounded and cooked with spice powders, crushed red chillies and generous splashes of coconut oil. The aroma alone is enough to make your mouth water before the plate even lands on the table.

Beef fry may be common across toddy shops, but serving idi irachi in its traditional style is what sets this place apart. Pair it with steaming kappa or soft palappam and the experience rises to another level altogether. The smoky, spicy meat against the mellow sweetness of tapioca is pure comfort.

Fish curry and kappa first, always

If you are stepping in for the first time, begin with kappa and fish curry. The curry arrives in a fiery red pool, its sharp tang from kudampuli balanced with just the right heat of chillies and salt. Pour it over soft chunks of tapioca and you understand why this combination never goes out of style.

The kitchen does not stop with fish. Pork and beef dishes too are prepared in robust, no-nonsense local flavours that feel unapologetically rustic.

Fried quail and seafood roasts

Seafood lovers have plenty to cheer about. Squid, prawns and crab are turned into rich roasts that go beyond a simple toss in masala. They are first fried in coconut oil, then roasted again with ginger, garlic and a splash of kudampuli extract to deepen the flavour.

A final sprinkle of crushed chillies on top gives the dish a slow-building heat that spice lovers will appreciate. Another crowd favourite is the fried quail. Crisp from its dip in hot coconut oil and served with fried garlic and curry leaves, it is the sort of plate that disappears before you realise it.

Bring the family along

Despite its toddy shop tag, the ambience at Andichira is relaxed enough for families to drop in on a holiday and enjoy a leisurely meal. If you crave the honest, unfiltered taste of Kerala’s traditional dishes, this little spot in Kakkoor promises a meal that lingers in memory long after the last bite.

How to reach: Andichira - Palachuvad Rd, Kakkoor, Piravom, Kerala 686667