This Thirutha curry has become Kochi’s most talked-about dish. Here’s how it’s made

Cradled in the lap of the Queen of the Arabian Sea is a little place overflowing with fish delicacies as abundant as the sea itself. When Jajina poured her 20 years of culinary experience into a single meal, thousands began seeking out that unforgettable taste. Through her famed Thirutha curry (flathead grey mullet), she transformed her restaurant Karthiyayini into a food destination beloved not just by Kochi, but by seafood lovers across Kerala.

Karthiyayini can be described as a treasure house of fish delicacies. It is the perfect stop for a lip-smacking noon meal complete with fish fry, fish curry, and an impressive spread of specials. Every dish stays true to traditional local flavours, and among the many delights on the menu, the Thirutha curry shines brightest.

Karthiyayini @ Kochi
In just a short span of time, Karthiyayini has earned a reputation for its distinctive seafood flavours and now runs three outlets across Kochi. One of the standout features here is the meal served on fresh plantain leaves, complemented by a wide selection of fish dishes. From squid and prawns to Asian seabass (Kalanji) and seer fish (Neymeen), fish delicacies are prepared in different styles and flavour profiles.

The fish fry made with bird’s eye chillies, a recent favourite on their menu, has already won many hearts. The special-masala fish fries too have a loyal fan base. Once you taste them, you become an instant fan. The fried Indian mackerel (Avoli) and the uniquely prepared Thirutha curry with grated coconut are among the restaurant’s star attractions. Add to that the spicy squid roast marinated with bird’s eye chillies and the ever-popular seafood biryani, and it’s easy to see why Karthiyayini firmly stands out as a must-try culinary destination.

Kochi’s most-loved Thirutha curry
At Karthiyayini, the Thirutha curry is indeed a superstar. Every day, the kitchen prepares this curry using 85 pieces of Thirutha fish, grated coconut from 50 coconuts, and coconut milk extracted from 25 coconuts. Jajina, who owns the restaurant, personally prepares the curry before sending it off to all three Karthiyayini outlets.

Fresh fish is the foundation of every dish here, and this alone makes the delicacies far tastier. Customers rave about the seafood biryani, the special tiger prawns, lobster roast, and the Neymeen pollichathu (seer fish roasted in banana leaf wrap).

Karthiyayini’s outlets are located at Kundannoor in Ernakulam, Athani near Kochi International Airport and Ottapunna Junction near Cherthala, with a fourth outlet set to open soon in Coimbatore.

Unveiling the secret of Thirutha curry
First, clean the Thirutha fish and cut it into pieces, if required. Heat coconut oil in a traditional clay vessel. Add finely chopped shallots and sauté well. Follow this with ginger and green chillies. Then add the secret taste mix of Karthiyayini, which is a smooth paste made by grinding grated coconut with chilli powder and turmeric, seasoned in coconut oil along with green chillies and tamarind.

Pour in coconut milk according to taste, add salt and bring the mixture to a boil. When the oil rises to the surface, add the fish pieces and allow them to cook. Once done, prepare a tempering in a separate pan with coconut oil, mustard seeds, fenugreek seeds, curry leaves and dried red chillies. Pour this over the curry.

The piping-hot Thirutha curry is now ready. It pairs beautifully with boiled rice, puttu and more.