Kohitoor mangoes are never cut with metal knives: How to have the fruit for health benefits

The historic city of Murshidabad in West Bengal was once home to royal families, Nawabs, fortresses and ancient buildings. But, food lovers might associate the city with Kohitoor or 'kohitur' mango, the delicious and plump fruit that's the 'kohinoor' among mangoes. It was specially cultivated in the royal orchards. More than just a fruit, the Kohitoor mango remains a symbol of the rich history, cultural heritage, and unique agricultural practises of Bengal. A single piece of this mango costs between ₹2000 and ₹ 2500. However, the rich history and the rare agricultural practises make this mango one of the rarest and most expensive varieties in India. 

From the royal orchard
The famous Kohitoor mango originated during the times of the Nawabs. Historical documents state that this variety was developed as per the instructions of Nawab Siraj ud Daulah. It was developed by grafting some of the best mango varieties from across the country, especially the black coloured Kalopahar. Meanwhile, some historians credit Nawab Murshid Khuli Khan with bringing the sapling from Yangoon, Myanmar. In the olden days, the common man couldn’t enjoy the Kohitoor mango for its high price and exclusivity. It was grown only in the Nawab’s royal orchards, and they were served only for the royal family and nobles. Each mango tree was treated as a palace employee that served the Nawab with its incredible taste and aroma. 

Never cut with metal knives
Cultivating the Kohitoor mango is nothing short of an art. Mango clerks were appointed during the times of the Nawabs to take special care of the mango trees. They had perfect knowledge about the various stages of ripeness. Unlike other mangoes, the Kohitoor mangoes were not plucked using metal knives. It was believed that metal would damage the stem, ruining the mango's authentic flavour. These mangoes were gently plucked from the trees using bamboo planks. 

Interestingly, it is said that the smell of metal ruins the fruit's sweet, authentic aroma. Even today, these mangoes are cut using special blades made with bamboo or timber. This diligence and care in preserving the authentic flavour and health benefits are what make the Kohitoor mango a rare treat. 

Stacked in cotton
The skin of the Kohinoor mango is extremely soft and delicate. The fruit would be smashed if it fell down or if it were squished with fingers while checking for ripeness. So, each mango is carefully wrapped in cotton wool as soon as it is plucked to preserve its shape and flavour. The mangoes would ripen fully while resting on the cotton wool. These are then stored in a clean, dry place out of direct sunlight. 

Disappearing trees
Kohitoor trees are now found only in a few places, such as Lalbagh and Safar Ganj in Murshidabad. Only ten Kohinoor mango trees remain at the famous royal orchard of the Nawab. Meanwhile, only three trees bore fruit last season. 150 mangoes were harvested from these trees in the royal orchard. This rarity or shortage of availability is what makes the mango expensive. Earlier, Kohinoor mangoes were exported to the Gulf countries and London. However, since the production of the Kohinoor mango has nosedived, only the rich businessmen and luxury enthusiasts of Kolkata get a chance to relish them. 

Flavour, health benefits
The soft flesh of the ripe Kohitoor mango is golden yellow in colour and has a magical aroma. The delicious mango pieces are so soft that they melt in the mouth. Compared to other varieties, Kohinoor mango has less fibre. Meanwhile, the rich, layered sweetness with a mild tanginess makes the mango extremely delicious. The mango is rich in vitamin C, can support digestion and improve skin health.  

Need for preservation
The authorities have been trying to protect and preserve the indigenous mango varieties of Murshidabad. Meanwhile, the process for acquiring the Geographical Indication Tag for the Kohinoor mango is underway. If these trees, which are facing extinction, are not preserved, a part of the region's rich cultural heritage and history will be lost forever. Every Kohinoor mango that is produced in Murshidabad is part of an elaborate history of the great Nawabs. Although the Kohinoor mango is often discussed for its exorbitant price, it remains a fabulous reminder of a splendid agricultural technique developed by humans and nurtured by nature.