What's it like to spend a night in Kerala's Parambikulam Tiger Reserve?

"Wild tuskers are often spotted near the reservoir at night. The water shines like silver when you look from atop the dam on fullmoon days... It's an incredible sight when it rains in the reservoir while the mist evaporates like plumes of smoke. Wild bison and their calves graze the valley. Meanwhile, monkeys and the Indian giant squirrel give you hints whenever a tiger is spotted in the vicinity. But, bears are the most dangerous ones... they chase and attack from behind you..."

Daivany, the female caretaker at Kerala's Parambikulam Dam, spoke with a gentle smile, as her eyes reflected the wild thrill of the tales. It’s been five years since Daivany has been working as a night watcher at the majestic dam built across the Parambikulam river amid the thick forests where ferocious tigers and mighty bears dwell. She guards the dam, without catching a wink of sleep, looking out for wild animals in the silence of the night.

Forest of mesmerising sights
The sun had begun to set when we reached the Parambikulam dam. The nature offered a scintillating canvas of crimson sky, dancing waters, and smoky mist. The water from this dam, which is a part of the Parambikulam – Aliyar project, reaches Aliyar through a giant tunnel. Meanwhile, the dam is managed by the Tamil Nadu government. The gigantic dam and the reservoir are incredible engineering marvels that instantly lure your attention. We noticed two figures walking near the dam, where public entry is restricted.

Our guide told us that one of them is Daivany, the night guard at the dam. She is a contract employee of the Tamil Nadu government. She is accompanied by her husband Kannan. They live at the Mannanna Ooru, a tribal settlement near the dam. Besides Mannana, Kuriyarkutty, Sangam Colony, Kadavu Colony, and Pooppara are among the other tribal settlements in Parambikulam. Daivany and Kannan bring blankets to ward off the cold at night and a portable stove to brew coffee.

Daivany climbed down the stairs on the side of the dam and opened the lock of the gate into the dam. The stairs descend as if they lead into a deep well. They climbed down to an area that looked like the mouth of a cave. The roaring sound of a distant waterfall could be heard. Daivany and Kannan stay in this area inside the dam at night. The motor must be switched on every hour when the tank is filled with water flowing from the nearby springs. They lie down on the narrow path, pressing their ears onto the floor, listening to the murmuring sound of water. Mats and pillows are neatly stacked in a corner here.

Daivany smiled when I asked her whether she wasn’t scared to spend the night inside the giant dam. “I am not scared. Isn’t this forest ours?,” she replied with an expression of belonginess on her face. Kannan accompanies Daivany on most nights. The couple have often faced tigers and bears on their way to the dam. Daivany says that the wild animals give them a stare before going their own way.

“There are three dams in a single ward in this panchayat – Parambikulam, Kuriyarkutty and Peruvaripallam. The Tamil Nadu government manages all three dams. But, when the dam is opened during heavy rains, it is your Chalakkudi River that gets bigger,” Kannan began speaking about how the system works. Parambikulam dam has a capacity of 1825 feet. The old shutters were recently replaced with new ones.

The Mannanna Ooru
Mannanna Ooru, where Daivany and Kannan live, has over 120 residents from the Kadar tribal community. Most of them work at the dam as rowers of bamboo rafts for the tourists and as watchers. You could cross the river by walking over the concrete structure. The residents of this settlement go to Parambikulam to buy provisions and other necessities. Meanwhile, their children study at boarding schools. No one from outside comes to these tribal settlements that are situated deep inside the forest. The annual festival is the settlement's biggest event. The tribal people consider nature as God, and they imagine the pristine forest as the mighty Goddess.

As we spoke, a few peacocks flew past us, spreading their feathers. The tribal people consider the sighting of peacocks as a bad omen that precedes drought. These birds feed mainly on earthworms, considered the friends of farmers.

When darkness began to creep in, Daivany bid adieu to us and returned to the dam. Before leaving, she embraced me tightly and made me promise to return. The forest department has erected hundreds of boards along the forest path, warning you and wishing you a pleasant trip. One of the boards read, “Leave nothing other than your footprints; take nothing other than good memories.”

Here's how to reach Parambikulam
• You could go from Kochi via Nenmara and Pollachi. Parambikulam is 40 kilometres from Pollachi.
• Travellers could go to Parambikulam via Valparai and return via Nenmara.
• Parambikulam Tiger Reserve is situated 74 kilometres away from Palakkad and 44 kilometres from Pollachi. Visitors are allowed entry from 7 am to 6 pm. The ticket fare to travel in the forest department’s vehicle costs Rs 300 per head.

Private vehicles of visitors (those who do not reside inside the forest) will not be allowed into the forest. The main road to Parambikulam passes through Sethumada in Tamil Nadu. Visitors must obtain permission from forest officials to spend the night in the forest.

Thoonakadavu dam
Kannimara teak, Salim Ali Bird Interpretation Centre, old tramway, dam sites, trekking, bamboo safari and jungle safari are some of the main attractions. Visit the forest department’s website for details and for booking.
(The author is a renowned traveller and travel writer).