Foodies mourn woman hotelier Zainutha who built Zains from a single-room snack outlet & vied with Malabar's culinary giants

Kozhikode: In a city celebrated for its rich culinary traditions, few names evoke as much admiration as Zainabi Noor. Known fondly as Zainutha, she was not just a cook or hotel owner — she was a trailblazer. On Friday, she passed away at the age of 82, leaving behind a remarkable legacy that transformed Kozhikode’s food scene. In an era when it was highly unusual for a Muslim woman to step outside traditional roles, Zainabi defied family expectations and social norms to start a small evening snack stall in 1990. What began as a modest venture would grow over the years into Zains Hotel, now a favourite destination across the Malabar region for its signature snacks and biryanis.

Born into a traditional Muslim family, Zainabi faced considerable opposition when she decided to enter the food business. With the unwavering support of her husband, Noor Muhammad, she started a modest single-room food stall on Customs Road.

“At first, many in the family and even friends were sceptical,” said her daughter, Shireen Musthafa, now 56. “But Mom was adamant and dedicated. It was a bold step from a member of a traditional Muslim family in Kuttichira. Her recipes — like Irachi Pathiri, Biriyani, Chatti Pathiri, Unnakkaya, Kozhi Nirachath, Madaki Pathiri — made the restaurant truly special.”

Noor Muhammad, of Afghan origin and a well-known football player in the city, had returned from abroad, unsure of his next step. It was Zainabi, skilled in cooking, who suggested starting a food outlet. After two years, the business moved to its current location, where Zains Hotel became synonymous with delicious Malabar cuisine.

All the cooking was initially done by Zainabi herself. “She trained a few assistants later, but her personal touch and hospitality kept the hotel crowded at all hours,” Shireen recalled. “Even after Dad passed away fifteen years ago, Mom ran the hotel alone. Her dedication was unmatched.”

Zainabi remained active in the hotel until three years ago, after which she limited her presence to brief visits to oversee operations. Today, the hotel is managed by Shireen, who said her mother’s influence shaped her own interest in the culinary business.

“In the beginning, I wasn’t keen on being involved in the hotel business,” Shireen said. “But as an only child, Mom encouraged me to take part after Dad’s death. I became interested only because of her passion. She always wanted to make customers happy, and many popular Malabar snacks trending today are her creations.”

Shireen also shared how the hotel adapted over time. “Initially, we remained closed during Ramadan, but later we started opening for Iftar parties and parcel orders. The number of hotels has increased manyfold now, but we still have loyal customers who love Mom’s special recipes of snacks and biryani. We continue to serve them the same recipes, alongside other new items,” she said.

Musthafa, who assists Shireen in running the hotel, highlighted Zainabi’s role in shaping Kozhikode’s food scene. “When Mom started her single-room hotel in 1990, there were only four or five major hotels in the city — Paragon, Bombay Hotel, Topform, Rahmath etc. Now there are many, and people have choices. But thanks to Zainabi’s popularity and her dedication, the hotel survived and thrived,” he said.

Zainabi Noor leaves behind a legacy not just of food but of courage, innovation, and a woman’s determination to carve a space for herself in a male-dominated industry.