Kerala's favourite fish is finally getting bigger

For years, Kerala's fish markets have been flooded with mathi that looked nothing like the fish many Malayalis grew up eating. The sardines were smaller, thinner and often lacked the rich, oily flesh that makes them ideal for curries and fries. Some catches were so poorly developed that they ended up in fish-meal factories rather than kitchens.

This monsoon, however, fishermen along the Kerala coast are reporting something different: bigger mathi.

The sardines now arriving at landing centres are not only larger than the government's minimum legal size of 10 centimetres but are also carrying roe, indicating that they have completed a healthy growth cycle. For consumers, that could mean better-quality fish on the plate. For scientists and fishermen, it is a sign that the species may finally be recovering after years of stress.

Why size matters
The development comes at a time when many coastal communities are also watching for 'chakara', the monsoon phenomenon associated with unusually abundant fish catches along parts of Kerala's coast, especially in the south. While chakara is often celebrated for bringing shoals of fish close to shore, the quality of the catch matters as much as the quantity.

A basket full of juvenile sardines may offer a quick return, but it does little for the future of the fishery. Larger sardines, on the other hand, indicate that the fish have been allowed time to mature, feed and reproduce.

According to marine scientists, stricter enforcement of minimum-size regulations has played a major role. In recent years, authorities cracked down on the capture of sardines measuring less than 10 centimetres, allowing young fish to remain in the sea long enough to reach adulthood.

Nature has also lent a hand
Strong monsoon-driven currents and a process known as upwelling have brought nutrient-rich waters from the depths to the surface. This boosts the growth of plankton, the primary food source for sardines. Better feeding conditions mean faster growth, greater body weight and healthier fish.

For Kerala's food culture, that matters.

Mathi has long been the state's everyday fish, prized not just for affordability but also for its flavour. Larger sardines generally have more fat, firmer flesh and a richer taste, making them particularly sought after for traditional preparations such as mathi curry, spicy fry and toddy-shop specials.

Fish vendors often say that the best mathi are not necessarily the most abundant ones, but the ones that have had time to grow.

After several seasons dominated by undersized catches, this year's larger sardines may be the clearest sign yet that Kerala's favourite fish is getting a second chance. And if the monsoon seas continue to cooperate, fish lovers could soon find better mathi not just in the nets, but on their plates.