The banana leaf does most of the work. It seals in aroma, softens edges, and allows flavours to settle into one another.

The banana leaf does most of the work. It seals in aroma, softens edges, and allows flavours to settle into one another.

The banana leaf does most of the work. It seals in aroma, softens edges, and allows flavours to settle into one another.

It is almost odd when you think about it. For most Keralites, the taste of home is tied, in some way, to the lingering flavour of a banana leaf. That faint bitterness. That warmth. The way it stays behind even after the meal is done. Pair that with the sharp heat of our beloved kanthari, and your favourite fish, and you have something close to culinary heaven, sitting quietly on a Christmas table.

This is not festive food in the loud sense. There is no spectacle here, no centrepiece demanding attention. Pollichathu is careful food. Food that trusts time, heat and restraint.

The banana leaf does most of the work. It seals in aroma, softens edges, and allows flavours to settle into one another. Kanthari brings its sharpness without apology. The fish absorbs it without resistance. There is comfort in knowing exactly how this will taste. Unwrap it like a precious Christmas present for lunch. Then enjoy the quiet explosion of flavours.

Serves: 4 to 6

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Ingredients
For the marinade:
1/4 teaspoon cumin seeds
1/4 teaspoon black peppercorns
1 sprig curry leaves
5 shallots
1 1/2 teaspoons kanthari or bird’s eye chillies
1 inch ginger, chopped
8 cloves garlic
Juice of 1/2 lime
Salt, to taste
1/2 teaspoon turmeric powder
For the fish:
6 fish slices, cleaned and patted dry
Coconut oil, as needed
For the masala:
2 onions, finely chopped
1 tomato, chopped
Remaining marinade
For wrapping:
Banana leaves, lightly wilted over flame

Preparation
Crush the cumin seeds and peppercorns coarsely
Grind them with curry leaves, shallots, chillies, ginger and garlic into a rough paste
Stir in lime juice, salt and turmeric
Coat the fish slices with half of this marinade and set aside for about 30 minutes
Heat coconut oil in a pan and shallow-fry the fish until lightly browned
Remove and keep aside
In the same oil, sauté the onions until translucent
Add the tomato and cook until soft
Stir in the remaining marinade and cook until the raw smell disappears and the masala turns glossy
Place a spoonful of masala on a banana leaf
Lay the fried fish on top, add another spoonful of masala, and fold the leaf into a neat parcel
Heat a little coconut oil in a pan, place the parcels inside, cover and cook on low heat
Turn once and allow the fish to steam gently inside the leaf
Open only at the table.

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