How Napoleon’s chef invented a classic with one chicken and no plan

In the summer of 1800, Napoleon Bonaparte wasn’t thinking about dinner.

He was in Italy, deep in battle against Austrian forces near the small village of Marengo. It was a chaotic day. The Austrians had launched a surprise attack. The French were outnumbered. But as evening approached, Napoleon’s troops managed a stunning counterstrike. Victory was theirs.

Then came the real challenge: feeding the general.

The army’s supplies were scattered. Markets were shut. The field kitchen was nearly empty. But Napoleon’s personal chef, Dunand, did what any resourceful cook would do – he scavenged. A chicken, a handful of tomatoes, some oil, garlic, a splash of wine, and wild mushrooms. It all went into a pan. He cooked it slowly over fire. The result was rustic, rich, and full of flavour.

Napoleon devoured it.

Legend says he loved it so much that he made it his lucky dish, demanding it after every victory. Whether that part is true or just a good story, the dish stuck. And Chicken Marengo – a meal thrown together after one of Europe’s most famous battles – earned its place in the annals of culinary history.

The recipe: Chicken Marengo

This is a dish that tastes like it came from a time before recipes were written down, when cooking was instinct, not instruction. The flavours are straightforward but layered: seared chicken, softened onions, ripe tomatoes, a splash of white wine, and the earthiness of mushrooms. It all simmers into a broth that’s hearty, deep, and quietly elegant.

Ingredients
8 bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs
Salt and black pepper
½ cup all-purpose flour (for light dredging)
2 tbsp olive oil
1 small onion or large shallot, finely chopped
3 cups sliced button or cremini mushrooms
3 garlic cloves, minced
1 cup dry white wine
1 can diced tomatoes
1½ cups chicken stock
1 tsp dried thyme
1 bay leaf
Zest of ½ orange (optional but brightens the dish)
Fresh parsley, chopped (for finishing)
Optional touches (as per legend):
A fried egg, croutons, or sautéed prawns—believed to be part of the original improvisation.

Preparation
Dust the chicken lightly in flour
Season well
Heat oil in a heavy skillet or Dutch oven, then brown the chicken on both sides until golden
Set aside
In the same pan, add onions, mushrooms, and garlic
Cook over medium heat until soft and caramelized
Pour in the wine
Scrape up the browned bits stuck to the pan - this is where the flavour lives
Add tomatoes, stock, thyme, bay leaf, and orange zest. Stir it
Nestle the chicken back into the pot
Bring to a simmer, cover, and let it cook gently for about 40 minutes
Remove the bay leaf
Taste and adjust seasoning
Garnish with parsley
If you’re going traditional, top with a fried egg or a few garlic croutons
Serve hot, preferably with something to soak up the sauce – bread, rice, or creamy mashed potatoes.