The joy of celebrating Onam in Thiruvananthapuram

As the plane took off on a wet and grey September morning in Mumbai - a city that has been battered by heavy monsoon rain for a while - I was filled with a sense of excitement about going to Kerala’s capital for our treasured harvest festival.

Within two hours, the depressing, prolonged rainy season had given way to azure blue skies, sunshine, clear sea and the unmatchable greenery of Thiruvananthapuram. The local authorities had arranged for a man dressed as King Mahabali to greet all arriving passengers. Kerala’s capital was very much in the Onam mood.

Coming from a city getting ready for the noise of Ganesh immersion processions, I found myself in the calm and quiet of a Thiruvananthapuram afternoon, where people were relishing their sadhyas or biriyani, since Onam and Eid-e-Milad (and Teacher’s Day) fell on the same day.

Walking on the stretch from Palayam to Kanakakunnu Palace, I sensed the carnival atmosphere on the streets that were manned by a large number of police personnel. The excitement in the air was for the cultural programmes that were going to be held at the former home of CP Ramaswami Iyer.

It felt like all of Thiruvananthapuram was slowly converging on this beautiful spot to celebrate Onam. It was hard not to be taken in by the Panchavadyam players who seemed to relish the opportunity to play for the larger public. Once inside the Kanakakunnu compound, I noticed the beautiful decor that was in place, including artwork of the state and the symbolic piles of hay, marking the harvest.

The revellers were from all age groups, and the common space was used by the rich and the poor, Hindus, Muslims and Christians. The barriers and social exclusion that we see in many parts of the country these days didn’t seem to exist here. People also seemed to be dressed to their best to enjoy the occasion and for the customary selfies.

Inside the auditorium, I watched a Kathakali performance. What could be a more authentic Kerala experience than that! However, what struck me the most was how the festivities showcased the diverse cultures of Kerala, with regular performances of the songs and dances of the Adivasis and other groups.

As the sun went down, more people began to emerge from their Onam/Eid siesta and the area became really crowded. Unlike Western countries where a set of people get drunk or other parts of India, where crowds become unruly and chaotic, there seemed to be some kind of order and harmony at this celebration. People were looking to socialise and have a good time, but clearly seemed to respect the personal space of fellow revellers.

The atmosphere was like nothing I had seen before in India. Many Indians go to the West to enjoy the Christmas season, bringing back memories that last a lifetime. Coming to Thiruvananthapuram for Onam is an experience that very much compares to the December holidays in Europe, the New Year break in Russia or the Spring Festival in China. The big difference between those cultural delights and Onam of course is the warm and pleasant weather that we witness during the harvest festival.

The crowds continued to pile up as the evening went on and the illumination of the city centre’s heritage buildings, and the lighting of the trees added to the festive feel.

India is a country that aspires to greatness, but the best way for this nation to reach its full potential would be to follow the Kerala model of inclusivity. When festivals with religious origins expand and include every citizen and create a sense of ownership, unity naturally increases. While Christmas is still a religious festival for some in the West, it is celebrated with gusto by a much wider public and has a universal appeal.

As someone who has never lived long term in Kerala, but chooses to identify with its culture, the large Onam celebration in Trivandrum was an absolute treat. There isn’t a better way to showcase the culture of this state than the week-long celebrations in the capital, which include food festivals, live performances and sound and light shows (with drones).

If King Mahabali had indeed come back to his land this Onam, he would have seen a happy people truly enjoying themselves and making the most of the festival held in his honour.