A precious wrestler and pearls of memories

Saad Ismail Al Jassim
Saad Ismail Al Jassim

I headed to Souq Waqif, a traditional marketplace located in the heart of Doha's old downtown, to meet a Qatari wrestler of yesteryear. I was expecting a well-built, imposing figure, but was greeted by a bespectacled man in traditional Arab clothing. Saad Ismail Al Jassim was a fitness freak from a very young age. It is evident from the portraits of a young Saad flexing his muscles that adorn the walls of his shop. However, his prowess in wrestling is not exactly the reason why he is famous now.

The 87-year-old Saad is one of Qatar's last living pearl divers. Now he runs a pearl shop at Souq Waqif, a tourist and heritage landmark which offers glimpses of Qatari culture.

Qatar used to be a hub for freshwater pearl and pearl diving was a major cornerstone of the country's economy before the discovery of oil. Until 1940s, it was Qatar's main source of foreign currency.

Pearl diving as a profession struggled to stay afloat when Japanese cultured pearls started flooding the market. And with the discovery of enormous deposits of natural gas, Qataris virtually stopped going out in the sea to collect pearls. Eventually, pearl divers became a relic from the past.

"Pearl diving was risky and physically taxing," says Saad, sitting amid pearls and various items used for pearl diving that are on display at his shop. "A diver used to carry three things – ankle weights to prevent his legs from floating upwards as he dives, a net basket to collect the oysters, and a clip to avoid water getting into nose. There would be a helper waiting in the boat. The diver would remain under water for at least two minutes without breathing. The helper in the boat would pull him up once he gave the signal. In the boat, we would open oysters and extract pearls from them," Saad narrates his past adventures in a style that is irresistibly appealing.

It was then Pranob, a native of Assam who works as a helper at the pearl shop, revealed why Saad is masterful at captivating the listener. Apart from being a wrestler and pearl diver, Saad is also a poet and a polyglot!

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