Chandra in red, Sunny in yellow and a Yakshi in white: How Melwy J crafted every costume in ‘Lokah’

Did you notice Chandra’s deep red jacket and Sunny’s bright yellow jacket in ‘Lokah’? Thought they were random choices? Think again. Every colour, every stitch, every stud and accessory was meticulously crafted by costume designer Melwy J to tell the story without a single word.

Kalyani Priyadarshan’s Chandra, Malayalam cinema’s first female superhero, moves through Bangalore’s streets in goth street style — dark, rebellious, and impossibly cool. Across from her, Naslen’s Sunny wears bright yellow jackets, signalling warmth, light, and normalcy. “The red and black signify darkness, power, and mystery,” says Melwy. “Sunny’s yellow? That’s sunlight, life, and contrast. Even small visual contrasts carry meaning.”

It’s amazing how colour alone can shape your perception of a character before they even speak. Melwy designed these details to make the audience feel the story instinctively, without a single line of dialogue.

A yakshi you’d see on the street.
There is only one scene where Kalyani’s character breaks the established colour palette: the birthday party, where she walks in wearing a white dress. The choice of white was deliberate. Traditionally, Yakshis in folklore wear white saris, but how does a modern-day Yakshi dress? “Santhy Balachandran suggested the idea, and we went through three to four different cuts and fabrics until it worked. Even the neckline has a subtle moon reference,” says Melwy.

This modern Yakshi feels ethereal yet grounded, maintaining the essence of folklore while fitting naturally into a contemporary city setting. It’s a fresh, striking take that challenges traditional imagery and immediately captures attention.

Every detail matters
Melwy’s attention to detail extends far beyond colour. Chandra’s deep red-and-black palette is consistent even in flashback sequences, creating continuity. Accessories like studs, chains, and a custom-made nose ring were carefully chosen — off-the-shelf options didn’t suit the character. Minor characters also got similar care. Chandu Salimkumar, a medical student with a fascination for space and planets, wears outfits that reflect his personality and interests.

Some costumes were sourced internationally, including Bangkok, while others were custom-made to maintain authenticity. “Nothing is accidental,” says Melwy. “Every small detail counts. We wanted every costume to communicate something about the character.”
It’s worth pausing to think: how often do we notice these subtle details in a film, and how much do they affect our perception of the story?

Collaboration behind the scenes
The costumes in ‘Lokah’ were never created in isolation. Cinematographer Nimish Ravi ensured colours translated perfectly on screen. Co-writer Santhy Balachandran and director Dominic Arun provided input to make every outfit tell a story. Archana Rao, known for ‘Kalki’, helped refine Chandra’s superhero aesthetics alongside Tovino and Dulquer’s looks.

“We try to enhance the director’s vision and make it better,” Melwy says. The collaboration ensured that costume design wasn’t just about looks but storytelling, mood, and character identity.

Balancing style and budget
Working on a big-scale film with a limited budget presented challenges, but Melwy and his team embraced them. Every costume had to be visually impactful while serving the narrative. The Yakshi’s white dress, for example, went through multiple trials to perfect fabric, cut, and fit. Red and black hues in past sequences were carefully applied to maintain aesthetics and continuity.

It’s incredible how much thought goes into costume design, and knowing the effort behind it makes you appreciate the film even more.

From tailoring lessons to the big screen
Melwy’s journey is just as fascinating as his designs. Hailing from Perumbavoor, he began tailoring as a child, earning pocket money by altering clothes. After completing a BCom, he pursued textiles and fashion design. At 23, he entered cinema with ‘Welcome to Central Jail’. Actor Srinda encouraged him to take independent projects, paving the way for films like ‘Bramayugam’ and ‘Minnal Murali’.

Upcoming projects include ‘Dies Irae’, ‘Night Riders’, and ‘Chatha Pacha: The Ring of Rowdies’. Yet Melwy’s ultimate dream is designing for the MET Gala and creating a fabric under his mother’s name, a goal that shows how his passion extends beyond film.

The Takeaway
In ‘Lokah’, costumes do more than dress characters; they speak for them. Every choice, from Chandra’s striking red and black goth style to Sunny’s bright yellow jackets and the modern Yakshi, carries story, emotion and personality. Melwy J and his team do not just clothe actors, they craft a visual language that makes the city, the characters and even the folklore feel alive.
So the next time you watch a film, pause and notice the costumes. They might be telling you more than the dialogue ever could.