When a group of housewives came together in 2010 to clean a garbage-ridden wayside, they had no idea that this neglected marshland would soon become their livelihood. Located along the Manarcad-Ettumanoor Bypass Road, Kottayam’s Naalumanikattu (or evening breeze) is now a model for rural roadside tourism and a bustling hangout for food lovers, tourists, and families.

Here, 24 women manage 12 food stalls from 3pm daily. The recently upgraded stalls have received a prestigious five-star rating from Food Safety and Standards Authority of India (FSSAI) for clean street food.

Flanked by green fields on either side, the spot greets visitors with an array of traditional snacks, from egg bhaji and vada to the humble tapioca and yam. “One can enjoy the rustic countryside, feel the playful breeze on your face while having sizzling hot pazhampuris (banana fritters) and a piping hot cup of tea,” says a regular visitor to Naalumanikattu. The space sees 8,000–9,000 visitors on weekends and around 3,000 on weekdays.

The women responsible for maintaining the high standards take pride in serving their customers. “Our steamed purple yam (kachil) gets sold out as soon as it is prepared. The demand for banana leaf rice pancakes (ela ada) is also high,” says Vanaja. Meanwhile, Suja Dasappan, another vendor, is excited about the attention they have received on social media. “Many have shared their experiences on Instagram. They said that the vermicelli kheer (semiya payasam) at our stall is excellent,” she quips.

How it all started
The Manarcad-Ettumanoor Bypass, established in 2007, had become a dumping ground for waste. Though local residents joined hands to clear the overgrown vegetation in 2009 and 2010, the place was overrun by weed and waste—including slaughterhouse remains—within months.

Frustrated by the recurring issue, local residents, under the guidance of Dr Punnen Kurien, launched a pilot project to keep the bypass waste-free while supporting the local economy and preserving the environment. “Launched in 2011, the place has evolved into a village roadside eco-tourism project. This is a one-of-a-kind participatory initiative run by a people’s collective—the Manarcad-Ettumanoor Bypass Association,” says Dr Punnen Kurien, president of the association.

“The association decided the menu for each stall and fixed the quality and quantity standards. But the revenue generated was to be taken home by the women. Later, the association added a few benches, swings, and other facilities with the help of sponsors to increase visitor engagement,” he adds.

The initiative has helped uplift these women and their families. At least half of them have been part of the project since its inception in 2011. “I’ve been selling snacks at Naalumanikattu for the past 14 years. The income from this place helped me secure treatment for my ailing husband and educate my two sons,” says Sheena, a stall owner. Kamalamma, who has been part of Naalumanikattu for 10 years, echoes Sheena's words. She recounts how the initiative was crucial for her family when her husband fell ill.

The women also say that Naalumanikattu has boosted their financial independence. “With a steady source of income from this venture, we can easily approach banks or lenders in an emergency,” says Vanaja.

Some of these women recently joined the roadside venture after quitting other jobs. Prameetha was an ayurvedic nurse before setting up a stall here, while Shailaja Mohan worked as an auto driver for 12 years. Geeta Johnson, on the other hand, opened a stall after working as a househelp in Kuwait for four years. Another stall owner quit her job at a courier service due to the extremely long hours.

Assured of steady returns, most of these women have taken loans to upgrade their stalls. “Four of us formed a Joint Liability Group (JLG). We took a loan of Rs 3 lakh—Rs 1.5 lakh each for two stalls, Saphalyam 1 and Saphalyam 2,” says Prameetha, one of the new entrants at Naalumanikattu.

FSSAI and upgradation
In 2012–13, Naalumanikattu received the Most Innovative Tourism Project Award from the Kerala government, and in 2014, it won the Sustainable Tourism Award from the World Tourism Council. In 2025, the stalls were upgraded to meet the stringent standards set by FSSAI.

The women have embraced the changes required to meet food safety regulations. Despite the sweltering heat, they wear uniforms, aprons, gloves, caps and masks while working. All transactions are cashless, processed through a QR scanner. Filtered water and solar-powered lighting have been installed. The women also take responsibility for maintaining cleanliness, taking turns to clean the space and uploading before-and-after photos via an app.

Equipped with slides, swings, and other attractions, Naalumanikattu has now become a favourite spot for families looking for a safe place for their children to play. But it is the mouth-watering snacks served by these women that keep visitors coming back for more.