Easter holy week: Kerala's historic churches with memorable rites to celebrate the occasion

The 'inri' appam of the passover (pesaha) day, the soulful procession and porridge of the Good Friday, the midnight mass, staging of the ressurection scene, Easter egg hunts... holy week has many spiritual and nostalgic elements to it, relished by both the devotees and those drawn to our traditional customs. Unlike in the past, not everyone has the luxury of being at their native place during the holy week. However, if you still long to mark the holy customs, here are a few historic churches of Kerala where you can join the community for an inclusive holy observance and revel in devotion. Tourists too often take part in the divine rites here, honouring traditions, to experience the rituals.

1) Malayattoor Church, Ernakulam
The sacred shrine perched atop the Malayattoor hill in Ernakulam is believed to have been instituted by Jesus' disciple, St.Thomas the Apostle. An 8-km uphill pilgrimage trek, through an inclined, steep rocky forest path, is a signature element of the Malayattoor holy week. The devotees undertake this to retrace the experience of the apostle's journey. Many devotees undertake the trek barefoot, carrying wooden crosses and chanting the rosary. It is considered an act of penance and prayer and an attempt to mirror Jesus climbing the Calvary mount before his crucifixion. The devotees can trek up to the shrine round the clock, and if the authorities are informed in advance, accommodation or resting facilities will also be arranged for them. 

Timings
April 17, Passover day
Foot washing ceremony: 7 am
April 18, Good Friday
Good Friday Liturgy: 7 am
April 20, Easter
Easter service: 11.45 pm
Sunday masses: 3 am, 5.30 am, 7.30 am and 9.30 am

2. St Andrew's Basilica, Arthunkal, Alappuzha
The church, built in the 1500s, combines European and Kerala aesthetics. It is located in Alappuzha's coastal town of Arthunkal. The church faces the Arabian Sea, and its seaside setting gives its celebrations and rites a serene ambience. It's about 22 km from Alappuzha town, and its feasts often draw devotees of different religious beliefs. 

Timings
April 17, Passover day
The mass of the Lord's supper: 5.30 am
April 18, Good Friday
Adoration: 6 am
Way of the Cross: 3 pm
Entombment: 10 pm
April 20, Easter
Easter service: 11.45 pm
Sunday masses: 5.30 am, 7am, 9 am and 11 am

3. St. Mary's Jacobite Syrian Cathedral, Manarcad, Kottayam
It is believed to have been founded around 1000 AD and is one of the state's oldest churches. Located just about 8 km from Kottayam town, its renowned 'Ettu nombu' feast season sees pilgrims from across religions attending it with fervour. It's holy week, which also attracts a similar number of devotees. 

Timings
April 17, Passover day
Sandhya namaskaram, suthaara namaskaram,
paathirathri namaskaaram: 5 pm
April 18, Good Friday
Sleeba namaskaram, procession: 11.30 am
April 19, Good Saturday
Holy mass: 10 am
Easter service: 7 pm
April 20, Easter
Sunday masses: 6.30 am

4. St Peters and St Pauls Orthodox Church, Parumala, Pathanamthitta
A 130-year-old church situated on the banks of Kerala's Pampa River, it is dedicated to Saint Geevarghese Mar Gregorios, the first canonised saint of the Malankara Orthodox Syrian Church. He is popularly known as Parumala Thirumeni. It's yet another inclusive, interfaith pilgrimage centre where devotees arrive to attend its glorious festivals and holy week celebrations. Its tranquil location and spiritual energy also make it a special sacred space for believers. 

Timings
April 17, Passover day
Holy mass: 4.30 am
Foot washing ceremony: 2 pm
April 18, Good Friday
Sleeba vandanavu: 11.30 am
Procession, kumbideel, kabaradakkam: 1 pm
April 20, Easter
Rathri namaskaram, uyirppu susroosha: 2 am
Holy mass: 4.30 am