Nanjangud or Dakshina Kashi, as its reverentially called, is an unusual town as famous for its industrial units as its for its piety. Talk Nanjangud and it is the hoary Srikanteshwara temple that comes to mind.
The fascinating Karnataka town is just a day’s journey and back from Kozhikode and Wayanad districts in northern Kerala. There has been a clamour for a rail route to Nanjangud from Kalpetta in Wayanad, both being less than 120 km apart. Travellers from Kerala can access Nanjangud once they cross the forests bordering Kerala and Karnataka. A town in Mysuru district, 23 km away from Mysuru city, it rests on the banks of the River Kapila, which is known as Kabini in Kerala. Emerging majestically out of the forests, it’s a showpiece of a place with thriving industrial units and fertile farmlands where sugarcane is cultivated in abundance. Circling the cane farms are several small-scale jaggery production units. The bylanes of Nanjangud are a traveller’s delight, especially for women. From bangles to khol, kajal, sindoor, bindi and to multi-coloured sweets and murukku, it’s a splash of colours here, live and vibrant.
Awe-inspiring temple sculpture
Nanjangud, which is an ancient pilgrimage centre, is renowned for the Srikanteshwara Temple. The temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva as Nanjundeshwara, meaning one who has consumed poison. 'Nanja' means poison and 'kanta', neck. The names Nanjundeshwara and Srikanteshwara owe their origins to mythical story about Lord Shiva drinking the poison that frothed up during the the churning of the ocean (palazhi). Siva's "kanta" turned blue as the poison went down his throat.
Splendorous and awe-inspiring, this Saivite temple is one of the finest examples of Indian architecture. The 30,000-odd gold-hued carved figures, the multi-decked towers (gopuras) and several structures carved out of Krishnasila rocks defy description. The intricate layers of design are perfect to the minute detail. The grandeur of the temple is accentuated by the 30,000-odd statues carved in white marble. The formidable seven-storied gopura has a height of 36.576 m and is crowned by gold-plated vessels (kalasas) flanked by two horns.
The insides of the temple open up more visual splendors. Apart from the Shiva linga, there are 66 other Shaivite idols. Besides the main Shiva linga, more than a hundred other lingas of varying dimensions adorn the place. The statue of Lord Shiva at the temple is another attraction.
The temple, believed to have been sanctified by Lord Parasurama, became one of the coveted spots where successive dynasties vied with each other to add on to its grandeur. Historical records say that the temple reached the peak of its glory under the Vijayanagara kings. The temple as seen today is the contribution of the Wodeyar kings of the 17th and 18th centuries.
The stones walls of the temple have weathered the onslaught of both time and the elements. The temple, which is protected by the Archaeological Survey of India, enjoys the direct patronage and governance of the Karnataka Government.
Chariot festival
Shivrathri is the main festival at the temple. A sea of humanity throngs the town during the chariot festival held in March and September. A specially decorated 100-ft high chariot rolls out for the festivities and goes round the town accompanied by frenzied devotees. Apart from the main Lord Shiva idol, the other idols kept in the chariot include those of Parvathy, Ganapathy and Subramanian. The huge wheels of the chariot are rolled by the devotees and the mammoth rope used to draw the chariot is a sight by itself.
The Navaratri pavilion (mandapa) in front of the temple, built by the Wodeyar kings in the 18th century is today a venue for concerts.
Priceless jewels
The Srikanteshwara Temple is one of the richest temples in South India. Various empires and successive kings have bestowed the temple with immeasurable wealth in the form of precious stones, gems and priceless adornments for the deities. These adornments and jewels are exhibited only during festive days or seasons. It is believed that Mysore ruler Tipu Sultan gifted a priceless emerald necklace and a green linga to the temple. The necklace is special in that if its sides are arranged in a specific pattern, it takes the shape of a crocodile.
Kapila, the lifeline
The temple sits on the right bank of the river Kapila, a tributary of Cauvery. The stone mandapa in the river stands in isolated splendor. A dip in the holy waters of Kapila is a must before entering the temple and is considered an auspicious gesture. The Kapila is to Nanjangud what the Ganges is to Kashi. It originates in Kerala and flows though Nanjangud where it is regarded as the lifeline of the land with farmers living off its waters. After the rains, when the river is full, a spin down the Kabini in coracles is a thrilling experience.
Industrial town
The industrial heartland of Karnataka lies from Bengaluru to Mandya, Mysuru and to Nanjangud. The town is often referred to as the industrial hub of South India with the presence of massive as well as small units justifying this title. Nestle India has one of its biggest units in India here. So also the Hindustan Paper Mills. The local folks work their fields and also in the factories.
Land of milk and bananas
It’s literally true that milks flows into the Mysuru Milk Union from the dairy farms of Nanjangud. Dairy is one of the prominent sources of revenue here. There’s not one household without a cow. Cows are revered here and are seen grazing even on the temple premises. Many round stone basins found in and around the town were originally built as water storage for cows. Fruits and vegetables are available in plenty and cultivated over vast tracts of land. There are signs everywhere for a switch over to organic farming. Age-old farming traditions that are still followed here add to the vintage looks of the town.
A village railway station
If the Wayanad rail line were to be a reality, one line has to surely touch Nanjangud. At present, the railway station here is untouched by modernity or hi-tech. All around you see Kannada farmers, robed in village innocence, carrying baskets of fruits and vegetables waiting patiently for the train to steam in. Purely indigenous Nanjangud produce and ware are sold on the several lanes close to the station.
Road map to Nanjangud
Drive down the Kozhikode-Bengaluru Highway. Cross Bathery and Muthanga in Kerala and Bandipur in Karnataka to reach Gundalpet. Take the same route and you reach Nanjangud, ahead of Mysuru. Nanjangud is 110 km from Kalpetta and 85 km from Bathery in Kerala.
