Acute scarcity of potable water in one of the most lovable summer destinations of India, Simla, is a dampener for many who had planned a summer vacation in the hill town. While the Himachal Pradesh government does what it can to deal with the adversity, tourists can explore less popular places of scenic beauty and cultural legacy in the state.
Almost 80 km north of Simla or Shimla, lays a quaint hamlet Kotgarh, that boasts of a rich cultural and historical heritage.
A 146-year-old church here, which is attached to the Gorton Mission School surrounded by apple orchards, stands as testimony to its rich cultural tradition. St. Mary's Church was built in 1872 by the Christian Missionary Society and it continues to hold mass in Urdu and in English every Sunday till date. Somehow hidden from the eyes of tourists, the church carries on its functions with a family of almost 35 local members.
If one happens to visit it on a Sunday morning, they might be able to spark a conversation with one of its many senile members about their share in the freedom movement and the hamlet's tryst with cultural and religious revolutions since the arrival of the British. You may even me invited by the resident priest for a cup of tea in his house which is another marvel of minimalistic Gothic architecture.
What strikes the eye is the box-like structure and the unusually low-lying roof of the church. The creepers running wild along the doors and windows only add to the pastoral beauty of the building. With the snow-clad upper Himalayan range and the Satlej valley in view, the location itself is enough to take your breath away. Perfect for a photo-walk, the church compound seems frozen in time, with pristinely kept orchards and gardens.
St. Mary's has also gained a place in literature through its mention in Rudyard Kipling's short story 'Lisbeth' wherein he calls Kotgarh 'the mistress of the northern hills.'The author spent a few years here with his family, writing tales about the mountainous towns in and around.
Although the church was declared a heritage site by the government of Himachal Pradesh and has a brief section dedicated to it on its website, it has failed to catch the eye of the wandering travellers. Hardly taking up space on the compound, the church is very easy to maintain and has been taken care over the years by the Church of North India.
How to reach: The nearest airport is at Chandigarh from where a bus to Simla must be boarded. From Simla ISBT get on a direct bus to Kotgarh or change from Narkanda. Once in Kotgarh, an off-road walk of almost 2 km would take you to your destination.
Nearby places to visit: Narkanda town, at an altitude of 2,708 m, lies only 10 km away from Kotgarh, and has the hilltop Hatu temple as a major attraction. Tani Jhubbar lake also falls on the way from Kotgarh to Narkanda.
What to eat: The typical local cuisine may be hard to spot in the hotels around the place but the warm-hearted locals may be more than willing to host you a meal of khatredi, a dish prepared with rice, curd and flour, and served with generous amount of ghee (clarified butter).
What to buy: Home to a variety of fruits including apricots, pears, peaches, cherries and of course numerous varieties of apple, Kotgarh will give you a lot of options for buying fresh fruit.
