Kerala's cyclist-photographer explores India, braving death multiple times

Navin Paul pedalled his bicycle as fast as he could, descending the Khardung La pass, around 40 kilometres away from the misty town of Leh. It was already past 5 pm, and Navin was pedalling at 17,582 feet above sea level. The temperatures dropped below -17 degrees, and a deep and deadly gorge stared at Navin on one side of the road. The mountain pass was deserted, and not even a single vehicle could be seen on the road. The moon shone brightly, illuminating the deserted mountain path in a shower of silver. Navin, who was wearing an outfit that could fight only up to -5 degrees, didn’t stop pedalling. Finally, he reached the hotel and collapsed in front of the reception desk. The hotel employees who rushed to his aid gave him first aid and medical care. Meanwhile, the man who rode a bicycle through the treacherous mountain pass with feeble breath and frost-bitten fingers managed to survive. 

Death has come quite close to Navin many times during his five-year cycling trip, covering 19,000 kilometres across 28 states in India. However, he never gave up his passion and continued his journey. From the snowcapped mountains of Kashmir and the mysterious wilderness of the north eastern states to the hot deserts of Rajasthan and the giant waves of Kanyakumari, this 31-year-old cyclist-photographer has experienced them all. He has fulfilled his dream of doing landscape photography during his cycling trip; India is a land of myriad topographies, weather, and unique geographical features. Navin, the only child of Kottayam Chalukunnu native Vattukalathil Suresh Paul and Anita, is proud that he has successfully completed his ‘India On Cycle’ journey. 

India on a cycle
Navin began the 'India on Cycle' journey during the COVID times to capture the million expressions of India in his camera. He was working as a photographer after completing his mechanical engineering when the dream of exploring India was born. He was particularly interested in landscape photography, and it was his friends who suggested touring India by cycle to explore the country in its truest sense. Navin, who liked the idea, studied travellers who toured the world on bicycles. He then bought a cycle and equipped it with features that are needed for such a long trip. Finally, Navin began his trip on March 3, 2021. 

The paths covered
Navin took the coastal roads of Kerala to reach Udupi and Goa, then entered Maharashtra. However, he got stalled there due to the second wave of the COVID-19 outbreak. He stayed with a friend at his flat in Mumbai for a few months until COVID-19 subsided. Navin then pedalled north, covering Delhi and Madhya Pradesh. Gujarat, Rajasthan, Haryana, Punjab, Uttar Pradesh, Jammu and Ladakh. He travelled for over 1.5 years through the beautiful landscapes of Assam, Arunachal Pradesh, Manipur, Meghalaya, Mizoram, Nagaland, Tripura and Sikkim. Navin then cycled through West Bengal, Bihar, Jharkhand, Chhattisgarh, Telangana and Andhra Pradesh before entering Chennai. From Chennai, he visited the Andaman and Nicobar Islands. Naveen, who is now travelling through Tamil Nadu, will head back home within a month. 

Hardships and exciting sights
Sweltering heat, torrential rains and heavy snowfall had often caused trouble during Navin’s trip. However, with his determination and unending passion for exploring India, Navin overcame the challenges to complete this incredible feat. He often spent the nights at petrol pumps and dhabas, while temples and gurdwaras too opened their gates for the cyclist. Meanwhile, in some villages, he was hosted by the village chiefs, and rarely slept at his friends’ homes. When he couldn’t find anywhere to sleep, Navin didn’t hesitate to set up his tent in the open areas or roadside. 

He relied on hostels and schools run by Christian missionaries in the north-eastern states, as well as in Chhattisgarh and Jharkhand. Naveen spent time with the children at these hostels and took part in the mission activities to make his trip meaningful. Although he preferred cooking his own food, Navin says he was mostly fed by kind strangers willing to share a meal with him. Navin once asked a person who helped him why he was helping a stranger. “I feel happy seeing someone do what I couldn’t,” he replied. 

When death came calling
Navin reached Ladakh in October 2021. It was the beginning of the winter season. He started pedalling towards the Khardung La Pass, the world's highest motorable road, at around 6 am. The temperature was just below zero when he started his journey. Navin reached the North Pullu check post by noon. The road sides were covered in thick layers of snow. As he neared the Khardung La Pass, Naveen felt that the road was getting steeper and longer. He was pedalling with his bags that weighed almost 30 kilos. Navin stopped pedalling and started pushing the cycle as the oxygen levels in the atmosphere began to drop. 

He, however, didn’t forget to take photos and videos of the mesmerising valleys. It was past 5.30 pm when he reached the summit; the temperature dropped to freezing, and darkness shrouded the atmosphere, with the sun no longer visible. Naveen soon realised that the only facility there was an Indian military camp. Although he requested permission to spend the night there, the request was denied for security reasons. Besides, the soldiers advised him to return to Leh. 

By this time, the temperature had plummeted to -17 degrees. Navin saw his sweat drops turn into tiny ice crystals. Helpless and desperate, Naveen decided to return to Leh. He was alone when he descended the mountain pass, as the lights didn’t work due to severe cold. The moon shone bright that night and lighted the mountain path for Navin. He was careful and slowly descended the slopes, as he would fall into a deep gorge if he slipped or stumbled. Although he managed to reach North Pullu, the check post was deserted, and there was no one to help him. That was the moment when the faces of his loved ones began appearing in his mind. His body felt weak, but his mind urged him to move forward.

Naveen descended the mountain pass and somehow managed to reach the hotel where he had stayed in Leh. Naveen, who collapsed in front of the hotel, was carried inside by the employees. He was taken straight to the hotel’s kitchen so that he would feel warm. The employees couldn’t remove Naveen’s gloves as they had stiffened in the chilly weather. His hands turned blue when the gloves were removed by pouring hot water over them. Naveen was suffering from the first stage of a severe condition called frostbite. He still can’t forget the kindness of the hotel staff who nursed him back to health. 

Four months for a frame
Navin says he was overwhelmed by the magical views and sights that he saw throughout his journey. The early mornings in the Himalayas, the innocent smiles he saw in rural Indian villages, and the scintillating greenery of the Western Ghats became enchanting frames for his camera. More than just a picture, each frame had a beautiful tale to tell. Naveen made sure to click photos of every place he visited, capturing memories forever. Navin says he stayed in a place for four months to take the photograph called the Whispering Willow. The photograph of the lone Kashmir willow tree on the banks of the River Sindhu, with breathtaking views of the Himalayas in the background, is truly mesmerising. Navin waited for four months for the perfect weather and light. 

Not an easy task
Navin admits that he struggled a lot because he was inexperienced in travelling long distances by cycle and lacked sufficient equipment. Besides, it wasn’t cheap either, as he had spent around Rs 4 lakh travelling across India by bicycle. The spare parts of his Triban RC 100 bicycle were quite pricey. Navin sold his photos online to find money for his trip. 

Navin’s photos gained popularity and attracted buyers from abroad when National Geographic and Nikon shared them on their social media pages. He received technical assistance from Nikon throughout the journey, making his photos even more beautiful and sharper. Now, Navin plans to publish his photos from India in a picture book. 

Navin showed the world that distance doesn’t matter in achieving your dreams and that anything is possible if you have a heart to give it a try. A mind that refused to give up is what gave Navin the strength to complete this impossible feat. No matter how huge the world is, it is waiting for you. 

“ You will understand how beautiful our country is and experience the kindness of our people only if you travel at a cycle pace. There had been moments when I thought that I would die, but people came from everywhere to help me and support me. The lessons that these people taught me and the mesmerising sights that I saw in the remote Indian villages are truly unforgettable,” says Navin.