The great Indian oil debate: Coconut, sunflower, mustard or olive?

Every Indian kitchen has its favourite cooking oil.

In Kerala, many wouldn't dream of making fish curry or thoran without coconut oil. Across North India, mustard oil is the go-to for pickles and curries. Groundnut oil has long been a staple in western India, while sunflower oil found its way into millions of homes after being marketed as the "healthy" choice. Olive oil, meanwhile, has become a symbol of healthy eating, even if it rarely features in traditional Indian recipes.

But if you've ever stood in a supermarket aisle wondering which bottle belongs in your shopping cart, you're not alone.

The truth is, there is no single "best" cooking oil. According to the Indian Council of Medical Research (ICMR)-National Institute of Nutrition (NIN), the healthiest choice depends less on the name on the bottle and more on the kind of fat it contains, how much of it you use, and the rest of your diet.

Here's something many people don't know
All cooking oils are almost entirely fat.

Whether it's coconut, mustard, sunflower, sesame or olive oil, you're essentially buying fat. As the ICMR-NIN's “Facts and Fads of Lipids” points out, what makes one oil different from another is not the amount of fat but the 'type' of fat.

There are three main kinds:

• Saturated fat (SFA): Consuming too much saturated fat over time can raise LDL ("bad") cholesterol in many people, according to the ICMR-NIN and the World Health Organization (WHO).
• Monounsaturated fat (MUFA): Replacing saturated fat with monounsaturated fat may help improve blood cholesterol levels and support heart health.
• Polyunsaturated fat (PUFA): These include essential omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids, which our bodies cannot produce on their own.

No cooking oil contains just one type. Each is a different mix of all three.

How do popular cooking oils compare?

Approximate fatty acid composition per 100 g of oil. Values compiled from the review "Selecting Healthy Edible Oil in the Indian Context" published in the Indian Heart Journal.

Does this mean coconut oil is unhealthy?

Not quite. For decades, coconut oil has been at the centre of one of India's biggest food debates.

It is true that coconut oil contains more saturated fat than almost any other commonly used cooking oil. That is evident from the table. But that alone doesn't tell the whole story.

The ICMR-NIN does not advise people to eliminate traditional cooking oils from their diets. Instead, it recommends limiting excess saturated fat overall and maintaining a balance between different types of fats.

In other words, if coconut oil is what gives your avial, meen curry or cabbage thoran its familiar taste, there is no need to abandon it. The bigger concern is when saturated fat comes from multiple sources every day—large amounts of coconut oil, generous helpings of ghee, butter, bakery products and ultra-processed foods.

Ghee isn't the villain either
Ghee has gone from being labelled unhealthy to being celebrated as a superfood.

The reality lies somewhere in between.

Like coconut oil, ghee is rich in saturated fat. According to the ICMR-NIN, it can certainly be part of a healthy diet, but portion size matters. A spoon over hot rice or dal is very different from using ghee as the primary cooking fat for every meal. Food traditions don't become unhealthy overnight. Excess does.

Why nutritionists like mustard oil
Mustard oil may not be as common in Kerala as coconut oil, but nutrition experts often praise its fatty acid profile.

The review published in the Indian Heart Journal notes that mustard oil is rich in monounsaturated fat while also providing omega-3 fatty acids, a combination that is relatively uncommon among widely used cooking oils.

Its pungent flavour makes it perfect for fish, pickles and certain vegetable dishes, though it isn't meant to replace coconut oil in every Kerala recipe.

Groundnut, sesame and rice bran deserve more attention
Groundnut oil has quietly remained one of India's most balanced cooking oils. It contains a good amount of monounsaturated fat and works well for everyday cooking.

Sesame oil, another traditional favourite in South India, also offers a healthy balance of unsaturated fats while adding a distinct nutty flavour.

Rice bran oil has become increasingly popular because its fat profile sits somewhere in the middle, making it suitable for a wide range of cooking styles.

None of these oils is perfect. But each brings something valuable to the table.

Is sunflower oil really "heart healthy"?
Sunflower oil became popular because it is rich in polyunsaturated fats.

That isn't wrong. In fact, among commonly used cooking oils, sunflower oil has one of the highest PUFA contents.

However, according to the ICMR-NIN, relying on a single oil for years may not provide the best balance of fatty acids. That's why many nutrition experts now suggest rotating between different oils instead of sticking to one forever.

What about olive oil?
Olive oil is an excellent source of monounsaturated fat, and there is strong evidence supporting its role in the Mediterranean diet.

But buying the most expensive bottle on the supermarket shelf doesn't automatically make an Indian diet healthier.

Extra virgin olive oil is wonderful in salads, roasted vegetables and light cooking. It doesn't have to replace coconut oil in Kerala fish curry or sesame oil in a traditional chutney. Food is about nutrition, but it is also about flavour, culture and the way recipes have evolved over generations.

So which oil should you buy?
The ICMR-NIN recommends using a variety of edible oils over time rather than depending entirely on one type. Rotating between oils helps provide a better balance of different fatty acids.

Some combinations commonly suggested by nutrition experts include:

• Coconut oil and groundnut oil
• Mustard oil and rice bran oil
• Groundnut oil and sesame oil
• Rice bran oil and sunflower oil

You don't have to change oils every week. Simply alternating between two suitable oils over a few months can help diversify the types of fats in your diet.

One final thing matters more than the oil itself
Even the healthiest cooking oil is energy-dense.

One tablespoon of oil contains roughly 120 calories, according to the US Department of Agriculture (USDA). The ICMR-NIN Dietary Guidelines for Indians (2024) recommend about 20-30 g of visible fat per person per day for most sedentary adults. Visible fat includes cooking oil, ghee and butter.

That means using less oil while cooking, avoiding repeated deep-frying and eating fewer ultra-processed foods will often have a bigger impact on health than switching from one bottle of oil to another.

Because in the end, no cooking oil is magic.

A spoon of coconut oil in a home-cooked thoran, a drizzle of sesame oil over chutney, a splash of mustard oil in fish curry or a little olive oil in a salad can all have a place in a healthy diet. The healthiest kitchen isn't the one with the trendiest oil. It's the one where good ingredients are cooked well, enjoyed in moderation and shared around the table.

Sources

• Indian Council of Medical Research (ICMR)-National Institute of Nutrition. Dietary Guidelines for Indians (2024).
• Indian Council of Medical Research (ICMR)-National Institute of Nutrition. Facts and Fads of Lipids.
• Singh RB, et al. *electing Healthy Edible Oil in the Indian Context. Indian Heart Journal. 2016.
• World Health Organization. Healthy diet guidance.
• United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) FoodData Central.